Buttonhole-sewing machine.



Patented Sept. 25, |900. W. N. PARKES.

BUTTUNHGLE SEWING MACHINE.

w IN

I INVENTOR y hm-J MQW@ ATTORNEY THE cams parses co.

Patented Sept. 25, |900.

' w. N. PARKES.

BUTTUNHOLE SEWING MGHINEv (Application Bled Sept. 12, 1898.) A (No Model.) 9 Sheets- Sheet 2.

Illlilliilllllllllllllllllllli Q) m mmm@A ATTORNEY n.. wAsHmm-on u c No. 658,578. Patented Sept. 25, |900. w. N. PARKEs.

BTTONHDLE `SEWING MACHINE.

(Application led Sept. 12, 1898.) (No Model.) 4 9 Sheets-Sheet 3.

v m 0;: v o

. 1 0 o i o 4 N Tus mams PETERS co.. PHowAuTNo wAsmNnTo No. 653,578i "Patented spt. 25, man. w. u. PAnKEs. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Sept. 12, 189B.) (No Modal.) 9 Sheetlsheet 4.

"mi: i

Ulli] II||||| 'I um Imm-m BY MM-WWM ATTOR N EY Patented sept. 25, |900.

w. N'. PAnKEs. BuTToNHoLE SEWING MAcHlNE.

' (Application filed. Sept. 12, 1898.) (No ModeL) v 9 Sheets-Sheet 5.

BYWMM @aux ATTORNEY Tn: Noms Pinzas co. Pnomuwo., wAsuwGfoN, n. c.

Patented.Sept. 25, |900.

w. N. PAnKEs. BUTTNHOLE SEWINGMACHINE.

(Application filed Sept. 12, 1898.) (No Model.) 9 Sheets-#Sheet 65'.

J N6.. IIA 5..., Ilma-5555i lail "i, INVENTOR I WITNESSES:

ATTORNEY c, *me Nowms Pains co, Pnoouwo., WASHINGTON, n

Patented sept. 25, |900.

W. N. PABK'ES.

BUTTUNHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application led Sept. 12, 1898.)

9 Sheets-Sheet 7,

(No Model.)

LN m fw Attorney.

cams maas co.. PNoTaLn'no.. wAsmnm-ON n c lN0.,58,57`8. Pafentd Spt. 257 |900.

'W.'N. PARKES.

BUTTDNHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application led Sept. 12, 1898.) (No Model.) 9 Sheets-Sheet I8.

III

.E5 s N N Witnesses. Inventor.

2: L zwm @MM-@@@M Attorney.

TN: cams Pneus co. Puo'raurno.. wAsmmrrcm4 n. c.

.Patented Sept. v25, |900. A

W. N. PARKES.

BUTTONHULE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application led Sept. 12, 1898.) (No Modem 9 Sheds-Sheet 9.

I nvenior.

UNITE STATES VILLIAM N. PARKES,

PATENT OFFICE.

oF NEW YORK, N. Y.

BUTTONHOLE-SEWING NIACHINE-l SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N o. 658,578, dated September 25, 1900.

Application tied september 12,1898. serinNaQom?. lNomodeLi To if/ZZ whom 716 may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM N. PARKES, of the borough of Brooklyn, New York city, county of Kings, and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful 1mprovements in Buttonhole-Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification.

One of the main objects of myinvention is to provide a buttonhole-sewing machine in which the work has no lateral movement; and to this end I use, broadly speaking, the needle-bar movement which I use in my ornamental stitch sewing machine patented October 20, 1897, No. 592,510.

It is also an object of this invention to provide means, in combination with the stitching mechanism, for barring or tacking the ends of the holes, which means will move rapidly enough for this purpose and not interfere or affect the feeding mechanism or the feed of the work.

'lhese and other objects will appeal' more clearly when described in connection with the drawings.

'lhe tension-controller mechanism,the stopmotion, work-carrier, cutting device, and device for preventing the stop-motion from being returned to its normal position until the cutter has been raised to its elevated position each forms the subject-matter, respectively` of the followingr copending applications: Serial No. 733,225, filed October 10, 1399, Serial No. 733,226, filed October 10, 1399, Serial No. 733,227, filed October l0, 1899, Serial No. 2,570, filed January 24, 1900, and Seriall No. 199, filed January 3, 1900. These devices form no part in themselves of my present invention and are separately claimed in the abovereferred-to applications. 'lhey are fully illustrated and described in order that the entire workings of the Inachine may be thoroughly understood.

Referring to the drawings, Figure 1 is a front elevation of a buttonhole-sewing machine embodying my invention. Fig. 2 is a rear elevation, Fig. 3 is a top plan View beneath the plane of the section-line 3 3 in Fig. 2. Fig. 4 is a bottom plan View. Fig. 5 is a front end elevation. Fig. 6 is a rear end view. Fig. 7 is a detail perspective of the feed-wheel and segment attached thereto.

.theret-o.

Fig. 8 is a detail of the cutter-bar, showing the cushion for the same. Fig. 9 is a detail of the tripping device, showing the tripping end of the tripping-rod in an actuating position. Fig. 10 is a top View and partial section of a part of the'tripping device, showing the tripping-paWl-lever carrier mounted on its bearing. Fig. 11 is a side view of the tripping device after it has been actuated by the paWl-carrier and tripped the cutter. Fig. 1.2 is a ltop View of the mechanism shown in Fig. 10 after the cutter has been tripped. Fig. 13 is a top View of the cutter-carrier holding-lever, retaining-rod, and trippingpawl before the cutter has been tripped; and Fig. 14 is a similar View after the cutter has been tripped. Fig. 15 is a vertical section on the plane of the line 15 15 in Fig. 3. Fig. 16 is a face view of the gear-wheel 4. Fig. 17 is an end view of the cam placed next to this gear-wheel looking from left to right; and Fig. 13 is a side view, looking from right to left, of the ratchet-wheel which actuates this cam. Fig. 19 is a vertical section on the plane of the lines 19 19 in Figs. 1 and2 looking from left to right. Fig. 20 is a detail top view of the work-clamp in its normal position, and Fig. 21 is a side view of the same. Fig. 22 is a side View of the extending end of the workclamp spring and the cloth-presser attached Fig. 23 is a face View of the clothpresser. Fig. 24 is a detail view of the trip 25 is a similar view of the same afterits actuation. Fig. 26 is a side View of the stoppawl for the work-clamp-feed ratchet-wheel. Fig. 27 is a detailed plan view of the clothplate. Fig. 28 is a detail sectional view of one of the tension devices. Fig. 29 is a detail elevation of the eccentric adjustment on the under shaft of the machine. Fig. 30 is a diagrammatic view of the buttonholestitches enlarged and separated. Fig. 3l shows a normal-size buttonhole made on the machine. Fig. 32 is a detailed sectional view of the segmental lever, showing the jaws between Which the eccentric works. Fig. 33 is a top view showing the inclined face of the lever 10e. Fig. 34 shows the position of the lever I during the stitching of one side of a buttonhole; Fig. 35, its position during the stitching of the other side, and Fig. 36 its central position when barring-stitches are made.

In the drawings, A represents the arm of the machine, a its bed, and C its undershaft. a is a pivoted gate, and N is the needle-bar mounted therein. All of these parts are of ordinary construction and need no further or particular description, and it is understood that the machine is provided with the usual parts not particularly described.' Any understitching mechanism adapted to engage the needle-thread loop of a vertically-reciprocating and laterally-vibrating needle is adapted to and can be used in combination with my mechanisms.

I will first describe the mechanism for imparting the lateral movements to the needlebar.

In the present form of rnyinvention I use a usual construction of a vertically-reciprocating needle-bar mounted in a pivoted gate or frame. For vibrating or swinging the needle-bar gate I use a lever which is fulcrumed on an eccentric. The upper end of the lever is connected to the needle-bar gate by means of a usual rod or link, and the lower end is adapted to be engaged by a switch-cam which is mounted on the upper shaft of the machine. Two distinct classes of movements are imparted to this leverfrom two distinct sources. One of these is the switch-cam, which engages the lower end of the lever in a usual manner and imparts to it, and through it to the needie-bar gate, the usual vibratory lateral movements, which in turn produce, in combination with the complemental stitch-forming mechanism, the ordinary depth and edge stitches of the sides of the buttonhole. The other class of movements is immediately derived from the eccentric, on which it is fulcrumed, and which in turn is actuated by a cam. The movement of the eccentric is intermittent, and when it takes place the lever is transformed into a kind of compound lever havingasecond fulcrum at its cam-engaging end.

1 represents the lever last mentioned, the lower end of which is in engagement with a switch-cam l", secured to the upper shaft lE of the machine and through which it is Vibrated in the usual manner. This lever lis pivoted ou an eccentric 6, rigidly secured to the end of a transverse shaft l, suitably adapted to oscillate on the arm of the machine. The eccentricv is so mounted that the center of its action is vertically above the center of the shaft la. In the upper end of the lever l is a seat 1d, in which a sliding shoe le is mounted. A link lf is connected at one end to this shoe and at the other end to the needle-bar gate. I use for manually adjusting the extent of the lateral movement of the needlebar the lever l, provided on its face with a slotted plate lf", serving to retain the sliding shoe le in place. Depending from the lever end of the link 1f is a link 2, made adjustable in the direction of its length by being made in two pieces longitudinally movable with respect to each other and provided with' means for fastening them together after adjustment. Such adjustment will vary the position of the lever end of the link 1f with respect to the fulcrum of the lever 1 and will correspondingly vary the length or depth of the individual overseam-stitches. It is obvious that if the eccentric 6 is held from turning the movement imparted by the switch-cam l" to the lever l and through its link connection,

lf to the needle-bar will be the same as in ordinary oversearning-machines.

I provide means for automatically' varying the depth of the overseam-stitches, consisting of the link 2, adjustably secured at its lower end to a curved 'arm 2a, which in turn is mounted on one end of a transverse shaft 2b, mounted on the arm of the machine and adapted to oscillate. It is obvious that any change in the vertical position of the link 2 brought about by the oscillation of the arm 2L will correspondingly change the position of the lever end of the link lf with respect to that of the fulcrum of the lever l and vary the extent of the longitudinal movement of the link lf, and thereby alter the extent of the overseam-stitches. of the position on the arm 2*.of the lower end of the link 2 serves to regulate the extent of the automatic change, in the lateral vibration of the needle, and consequently the extent of the overseam-stitches.

The means provided for oscillating the shaft 2b are as follows: 0n the rear end ofthe shaft v2b is rigidly mounted a lever 2C, provided at one end with a friction-roller 2d, mounted on a stud. A cam-lever 3, mounted on suitable bearings on the arm of the machine, engages with the friction-roller 2d and is itself actuated by the lever 4 through the link 33, with which it is connected. On the lower end of this lever 4 is a friction-roller (5*, which is engaged by a cam 4, the groove of which is constructed with centrally-located straight parts l* and 2*, which are exactly opposite each other on the cam and straight parts 3* and 4*, which are located on opposite sides of the cam and near the opposite edges of the same. The centers of these straight parts of the groove are each exactly one-quarter distance around the cam. The parts l* and 2* are considerably longer than the parts 3* and 4*, the object ot' which will beexplained latter on. Inclined grooved portions 5*, 8*, 9*, and l0* connect with the grooved straightportions, and thereby form a complete groove around the cam. 'These inclined portions are all of the same length and the inclines are of the same angularity.

The shaft l"L is oscillated on its axis through the curved slotted arm 5, which isrrigidly secured to it at its upper end and to which an oscillatory motion is imparted bythe lever 4 through the link 24, which is operatively secured to the lever 4 at one end and adjustably secured to the arm 5 at the other end by The extent of the change A l'OO tos

IIO

means of a sliding shoe held in a slot on the arm. As l have already said, the shaft la is provided at its outer extremity with an eccentrically-inounted cylindrical head 6, the axis of which is above the axis of the shaft sufficiently to give the required lateral movement to the lever l. On the eccentric 6 the lever l is fulcruined and adapted to turn. Therefore when the shaft l is oscillated the eccentricity of its head causes the lever to move to the right or left, as the case may be, and thus changes its working position laterally, and the relations with respect to each other of the movements of this lever are such that when an increase is made in the extent of the overseain-stitch such increase takes place away from the center line of the buttonhole, which is clearly shown in Figs. 34, 35, and 36.

To one end of the cam 4 is adjustably attached a ratchet-wheel 4b, having spaces 4c and 4d in its periphery devoid of teeth, and provided with slots 4-, by which its adjustment is effected. On the hub 4f alongside of the ratchet-Wheel is mounted a pawl-lever 4g, carrying a paw] 4h, adapted to engage the teeth of the ratchet-Wheel. Connected with the pawl-lever 4'br and mounted on the same stud is an arm 4i, terminating in a strap 4J', encircling an eccentric 4,adjustably mounted on a carrier 41, which in turn is mounted and fastened on-the under shaft of the machine. Onthe other end of the cam 4is a projection 4m. To the left of the cam 4a is a gear-wheel 4, mounted on a shaft 4P, a projection 41 on the side of the gear-wheel being adapted to engage the similar projection 4rn on the side of the cam 4a. On the rear end of the shaft 4p is mounted and secured a ratchet feedwheel 7 and a pawl-lever7f, carrying a pawl 7b, which actuates the ratchet feed-Wheel. One end of a link 7c is connected with the pawl-lever 7 at its lower end, and the other end of the link is secured to a shoe in a seat 7d on the segment-lever 7e, mounted to oscillate on a bearing on the base of the machine. An eccentric 7f on the end of the shaft C engages the segment-lever 7e between jaws 7*, which are fastened on the back of said lever.

An ordinary tension 9 produces a tension on the thread during the entire stitching of the buttonhole. A second ordinary tension 9d produces a tension on the thread during the stitching of the sides of the holes and is then disengaged from the thread by the following mechanism An ordinary releasing-rod 9b, running through the center of the hub 9, on which the tension -disks 9d and 9e are mounted, engages a plate 9f, which in turn disengages the tension-spring 9g from the disk 9e. An inclined face 9h on the end of a lever 9i, pivoted on a stud on the head of the machine, is adapted to engage the free end of the tension-releasing rod 9b. The needle-bar-ac- J tuating mechanism through the link 2e, connectingthe lever 2C with the lever 91, actuates the latter and brings the cam 9 on the end of the same into engagement with the tension-releasing rod 9b when the movement of the needle-bar for forming a tack at the end of a buttonhole commences.

I have now specified the mechanism which increases and decreases the extent of the lateral vibrations of the needle, moves laterally the working position of the saine, and increases and decreasesthe amount of the tension on the thread. It is seen that the cam 4L is the primary source of all these movements and that all the actuating movements of this cam are transmitted to the various parts through the lever 4. I shall now describe the Work-clamp.

A flat spring S, loosely hinged on a bearing 8, forms the upper member of the workclamp. The spring 8 is bifurcated at its outer end to form two extensions 8b, through which and through two springs Sd, underneath the same, loosely pass two bolts SC into seats into two longitudinal shoes 8e,- Which are provided with longitudinal slots 8f at their outer extremities and adapted to receive tongues Sg, attached to the inner ends of two supplementary transverse shoes 8h, which are se- -cured to the outer extremities of the springs 8d. Passing through the extension 8* and with a seat on the same are four screws 8l, adapted to press down upon the springs 8d. A thumb-screw Si serves to increase or decrease the downward pressure of the spring 8. A slide 8k, provided with transverse jaws 8l on its under side, terminating at its outer extremity in a cloth-plate 8m and provided with a depressed and recessed bearing 8, forms the lower member of the Work-clamp, which is adapted to reciprocate in proper bearings on the bed-plate of the machine. A cam D, adjustably mounted on a disk d,which in turn is mounted on the end of a suitablymounted upright shaft d', is adapted to engage the work-carrier R between the jaws S of the lower member of the same. A beveled gear-wheel CZ on the shaft CZ meshes with a beveled gear d" ou the shaft E, which is.

mounted in suitable bearings on the bedplate of the machine. A gear e, mounted on the other end of the shaft E and meshing with the gear 4, connects it with the shaft F. The beveled gear CZ is secured to the shaft. E by means of a usual set-screw, as shown in Fig. 4. By loosening the set-screw the gear can of course be adjusted circularly on the shaft and also longitudinally onthe shaft. The cam D is so formed that the rotation of the saine produces a uniformly-reciprocating movement of the work-carrier and in'ths machine is preferably constructed to produce such a movement when off the center, so as to stitch a buttonhole from one-half an inch to one and one-quarter inches. It caribe made adjustable off the center by any ordinary means-for instance, by means of the slot and keyway shown in Fig. 3 and the screw d* therein shown for holding the same securely in place.

This cam can of coursey IOO be formed to produce a dwell at the end of the hole, if it is so desired. A wayrl, formed l through the members 8 and 8l, serves as a means for reaching a screw CZ* with a screwdriver, and thereby adjusting the cam D without removing any parts of the machine. When the machine stops at the finishing of a buttonhole, the guideway a* in the disk d is in a position longitudinally of the work-clamp and the cam D is off the center toward the rear end of the said work-carrier. This arrangement of the work-carrier and its actuating-cam makes it very convenient to adjust the latter. For example, the screw d* can be loosened by means of a screw-driver, and then by pushing the work-clamp from the operator the cam D will be moved more from the center of the disk d, or by moving the workcarrier toward the operator the said cam will be moved toward the center of the disk d and when in the desired position secured by again tightening the screw dit. Thus it is seen that the operator can tell by the position of the workclamp just what size buttonhole will be made.

The stop-motion mechanism is as follows: A wheel G is rigidly secured on the upper shaft of the machine, a second wheel H, loosely mounted on the shaft alongside of the same, being adapted to clutch and turn the rigidlymounted wheel, allot' which is of ordinary construction. A friction-strap 10, consisting of a flat spring lined with a frictional substance, like cloth or leather, is fastened at one `end to the springs 10, which in turn are secured to a bracket 10b, attached to the arm of the machine. The upper and middle part of this strap is connected with a coiled spring 10, which in turn is adj ustably secured to a standard 10d on the arm of the machine. The other end of the strap is adjustably secured to a lever 10G, pivoted on a stud 10f on the arm of the machine. The upper end of the lever is formed with an incline 10g, so that when the lever is turned in the direction of the arrow the upper face 10" pushes a projecting stud h on the wheel H, causing contact between the wheels G and H. A coiled spring 10J', secured at one end to the lower end of the lever 10vl and at its other end to a rod 10k, adjustably mounted in a standard 101 on the bed-plate of the machine, has a normal tendency to draw the lever l0e out of engagement with the wheel G. A catch 12 is attached to the lower end of lthe lever 10e, a latch 12a being adapted to hold the catch, and through it the lever 10e, in its normal position of holding the loose wheel H in contact with the rigid wheel G. On the inner surface of the feed-wheel 7 is pivoted a lever 7g, which is yieldingly held in an upright position by means of a coiled spring 7, also secured in a slot 7J' in the side of the feedwheel, the pin connecting the spring to the lever serving as a stop to limit its motion by being brought into contact with the sides of the slot as the lever turns on its pivot. As

the feed-wheel 7 is rotated in the direction of the arrow (the lever 7g rotating with it) its free end is brought to bear upward against the latch 12, as shown in Fig. 24E. The pressure against the latch being continued by the rotation of the wheel, the lever 7'g turns on its pivot until the pin connecting it with the coiled spring 7h is brought to bear against the end of the slot, when the further turning of thelever being stopped it lifts the latch 12a until it is out of the notch 12a, and thereby allows the spring 10j to actuate the lever 10e, and thereby release the wheel H from its engagement with the wheel G and to bring the friction-strap 10 into action against the face of the Wheel G and thus stop the machine. The spring 7h returns the lever 7g to its normal position after it has tripped the latch of the stop-motion.

Extending from the hub of the lever 10e is an arm 10m, to which is attached a dependent chain 10, the lower end of which is secured to a lever 10P, pivoted to abracket 10I on the under surface of the machine-table. An upward motion communicated to the lever 101 l by the operator pulls the chain l0n downward and turns the lever 10e until its inclined face 10b is against the loose wheel H, pressing it into engagement with the wheel G and thusl Yof the operator, an adj ustable footstool K being provided for operators of varying stature.

The feed-wheel 7, as I have said, has a number of teeth omitted from its periphery, as shown at 7W, and a toothed sector 7, adj ustably secured thereto, is adapted to give any predetermined distance between the last tooth 50 on the wheel 7 and thel first tooth y on the sector or to entirely close the space 7W. To explain the effect of the gap 7w and the sector 7m, suppose, for instance, that the pawl is set to feed the distance between two teeth ata stroke The sector 7In is then so set that the distance between the tooth y and the tooth on the ratchet-wheel xm' is the distance between two teeth-viz., equivalent to the length of a stroke. If it should happen from any cause that the pawl was engaging the wrong tooth-say 0c instead of 00" or a" on the sector-it would pass over the tooth y into the gap 7W and returning would engage the tooth fg and feed the wheel the distance ot' one tooth only. At its next stroke it would engage the tooth wm', and thus be'in engagement with the proper teeth again. Of course it is necessary that the feed-pawl 7b should be wide enough to engage with the teeth on the sector 7m, as well as those on the wheel 7.

At the rear of the feed-wheel 7 is mounted a pawl-stop 7 s on an eccentric 71 and adapted to turn onthe same. The eccentriclis mounted on a stud 7", which in turn is mounted on the bed of the machine. The eccentric 7l is provided With a projecting arm 7L, by means of which it can readily be adjusted. Any

TOC

IIO

usual screw having aseat in the end of the stud 7r will serve as a means` for holding the eccentric in place, the latter being made so that it extends slightly above the end of the stud fr, so the head of the screw will come into contact with the eccentric. Theadvantage of this construction is that by turning the eccentric the position of the engaging end of the pawl in relation to the stroke of the actuating-pawl may be changed.

The cutter and its actuating mechanism are as follows: The cutter-carrier 13 is mounted in the usual bearings in which a presser-bar is commonly mounted, a suitable cushion 13a, as shown in Fig. 8, being provided to receive the downward blow of the carrier when depressed. The depressor 13b for the carrier can be an ordinary coiled spring, such as is commonly used to depress the presser-bars in the ordinary overseam-machine. The carrier is provided near its lower extremity, but above the knife, which is mounted in the ordinary manner, with a laterally-projecting bearing 13C, adapted to rest when the knife is raised against the front end 13d of a movable holder 13e, which is a horizontal lever mounted in suitable bearings 13f on the head of the machine. The holder is provided at its rear end 13g and on its upper surface with a tooth 13h, adapted to engage withaud be actuated by a pawl 131', horizontally pivoted on the lower horizontal member 13k of a compound lever 131, adapted to turn on its vertical member 131, suitably pivoted on the head of the machine and provided with an upper horizontal member 13, provided at its outer extremity with a fork 13p and actuated in a manner presently to be described. The holder 13e is provided with a spring 13q, se-

cured to a bracket on the head of the ma chine and adapted to retract it to its normal position after it has been actuated by the pawl 131. The pawl 131' is provided with a projecting piece 132 adapted to engage with the projecting bearing 13, which moves the pawl out of engagementwith the tooth 13h on the holder as the knife decends. Itis also provided with a cam 13s, adapted to engage with a curved projection 13t on the rear end 13g of the holder and by the action of which the pawl is returned to its normal or engaging position as the knife is raised. The pawl is held securely against the under surface of the lever 131 by means of a coiled spring 13, adapted to produce sufficient friction to prevent undesirable movement of the pawl. A vertical cam-rod 14is pivoted at its upper end to a horizont-al lever 14, which reciprocates it, and its lower end is bent at 14h to form a cam. lntermediately it passes through a bracket-guide 14c on the head of the machine. The cam 11b as the rod 14 is moved downward, pressing against the fork 13p in the upper member 13n of the lever 13, causes the lever to move on its fulcrum. rlhis motion being communicated through the lever 13l to the pawl 13j moves the latter to actuate the lever end of the cutter-carrier holder 13e away from the bearing 1lic on the cutter-carrier and permits the depressor-spring to act and drive down the knife. The cam-rod 14; is reciprocated by the lever 145, which is fulcrumed on the shaft 1a. At its opposite end the lever 14;- is connected to a link 14h, which in turn is connected to the latch 12a of the stop-motion, whereby when the latch is lifted through the operation of the cam 12d on the catch 12 the link 111 is moved upward, and its mot-ion, as l have stated. is imparted to the cutter-carrier holder. 1t will be noted that the lifting of the latch 12a out of the notch 12C by the action of the feed-wheel 7 has no operative effect on the cutterft-rippingv device, but that the cutter-trippingmechan1 ism is acted upon during the action of the cam 12d. This secures the result that the stopping mechanism begins to act at the be-v ginning of the stoke of the actuating-pawl and that the cutter-tripping device is setinto action after the stroke of the actuating-pawl has been linished, so that the goods are at rest when the knife reaches them.

It will be observed that the cutter-carrier is provided with an upwardly-extending and adjustably-secured rod 13", bent at. 13W so as to project over the end of the lever 14a. When, therefore, the cutter is in a depressed position, the end of the lever 14: is prevented from being returned to its normal position until the knife is raised. 1n other words, the stopmotion cannot be returned toits normal position or the machine started until the knife isout of the goods and returned to its elevated position. After the cutter-carrier has been elevated the lever 14u is returned toits normal position through the retraction of the spring 14d after the stop-motion is released.

l provide for the cutter an auxiliary adjustable holder 15, mounted to reciprocate in a bracket 15a, adjust-ably mounted on the head of the machines. The forward end of the holder 15 is adapted to t into an aperture 15b in the laterally-projecting` bearing 13C of the cutterecarrier. The holder is provided with a stop-lug 15C, acting against a flange 15c1 on the bracket 15a to limit the forward movement of the holder. A coiled spring 15"', surroundingthe holderandimpinging against a flange 15f on the bracket 15, tends to push the holder forward. The forward end of the spring impinges against the stop-lug 15. The holder 15 isprovided with a stop-lug 15g, which when the holder is so turned as to IDO IOS

IIO

IIS

permit the lug to strike the flange 15f limits adapted to be engaged by a vertical stud 155, suitably mounted on the work-carrier. These parts are so arranged that when the carrier is at such a point that the needle is finishing the buttonhole the holder 15 is disengaged from the cutter-carrier and permits the descent of the knife at the proper time.

It will be observed that there is applied to the feeding mechanism for regulating the lateral movement of the needle-bar in the making of the barring and the changing of the lateral working position of the needlebar the device designated as 16 in the drawings for governing the feeding mechanism patented to me in United States Letters Patcnt No. 582,225. Similarly l employ another form of this device (designated as 16 in the drawings) to govern the movements of the workclam p feed-wheel. This friction device is formed of one piece, which nearly encompasses the shaft F, having two extending ends 16:1, through which a screw 17* passes, said screw serving as a means for increasing and decreasing the friction on the shaft F. To the upper end of one of the extending ends is attached one end of a spring 18*, the other end of which is attached to a fixed part of the machine. The spring 18" draws on the extending ends in the opposite direction to the rotation of the feedewheel 7. The contact-surface of this friction device with the shaft F is preferably provided with leather. These friction devices are in principle practically the same as used by me in the above patent, No. 582,225, and form no part of my present invention.

The following means are provided for opening the work-clamp, returning the cutter to its normal position, and releasing the tension 9. rlhe lever 17 is pivoted on a stud 17, which has a seat on the arm of the machine. A spring 17h is suitably mounted to normally hold the lever 17in the position shown in Fig. 2. The forward end 17c of the lever 17 is formed so as to extend in front of the face-plate of the machine, as shown in Fig. 5. A screw 17d passes through the forward end of said lever and is adapted to engage the tension-release lever 17e. A spring l7f, if mounted on the lever 17C, is adapted to be engaged by a stud 17g, mounted on the needle-bar N during the downward movement of the same. Returning to the lever 17, it is seen that a stud 171' projects from near its forward end, a rod 17, the upper end of which is threaded, passing loosely through said stud. On said threaded end is a nut 17j, which is suitably held in position by a jamnut 17k. The lower end of this rod 17i is loosely connected with the upper member 8 of the cloth-carrier. This nut17j is adjusted on the rod 17 so that when the forward end of the lever 17 is raised the engagement between the nut 17j and the stud 17h lifts the rod sufficiently to open the work-clamp. A downwardly-projecting arm 17l on the forward part of the lever 17 is provided with an head of the machine, and on the extended end of this arm is a stud on which a friction` roller 17o is mounted and adapted to rest on the shelf 17'. A rod 171, dependentv from the rear end of the lever 17, is provided with a chain 171, extending downward to a foot-le ver 171', suitably attached thereto. It is evident that one downward actuating movement of the foot-lever171will exert a pull upon the chain 171, which in turn will cause the rear end of the lever 17 to be depressed and the front to be elevated. This latter movement being communicated to the rod 17c will operate to lift the upper memberS of the work clamp. At the same time it raises the cutter through its 'engagement with the arm 17n of the cutteibar, and, furthermore, by means of its action upon the tension-releasing lever 17c it releases the tension 9.

It will be observed that the feed is stopped during the tacking at the finishing end of the buttonhole and that during'such tacking the tension 9a is released through the action of the lever 9i and its cam 9h. Thus the upper thread is practically free from any tension during the time that the work is being moved along or changed for the making of the next buttonhole, and'this freedom from tension continues until after the needle has commenced to descend. The advantage o f this is that no slack thread in commencing to stitch a buttonhole has to be pulled through the tensions by the operator to prevent its breaking.

To return to the ratchet-wheel 4th, it may be observed that when its actuatingpawl 4 reaches the spaces 4d and 4c (shown in detail in Fig. 18) the wheel comes to a rest and remains so until turned into engagement with its actuating-pawl 4h. The eccentric 4 is adjusted so as to actuate the pawl 4 a suiiicient extent to produce the number of strokes in passing from the gap 4C to the gap 4d required during the stitching at one end of the buttonhole. The pawl is so set that in passing over the distance between the gaps 4c and 4 it will feed at any one stroke through such a number of teeth that its total strokes will bring the pawl over the entire dist-ance. It is of course understood that the movement of the ratchet-wheel 4b is always much faster than that of the feed-wheel 7, as this latter wheel has to feed during the stitching of the entire buttonhole, while the former has only to feed during the making of the barringstitches. The cam 45t is constructed, as is shown in Fig. 2, so as to dwell in its action on the lever 4. This dwell occurs during the entire period for making the barring-stitches at the ends of the holes, and of course the speed of the wheel 4b determines the number of stitches that will be made in the bar. In the operation of the machine I preferably adjust the extent of the stroke of the pawl 4J so that the cam 4t is moved, through IOO IKO

the action of two strokes of the said pawl, the distance of one of the inclines in the groove of the cam. The cam 4n is so timed relative to the gaps in the teeth of the ratchet-wheel 4b that the roller 6* is just at the beginning of the inclines in the groove of the cam when the pawl 4h commences a forward movement. Assuming that the cam 4 is in the position shown in Fig. 2, the roller on the lower end bf the lever 4 in the position therein shown, and the other parts properly adjusted, the operation of the machine in completing a buttonhole will be as follows: First, during the turning of the cam 4u until the roller 6* reaches the incline 9* long bar-.

ring-stitches will be made across the first end of the buttonhole by reason of the said roller being in a central portion of the cam and the end ot the connection 1f being enough above the pivot of the lever l to form such stitches, the adjustment of the length of the link 2 determining the length of the stitches, and second, on further movement of the cam the incline fl* engages lthe roller 6*, and through it moves the lower end of the lever 4 toward the rear end of the machine until the portion 23* is reached, when such movement stops and the movement of the cam also stops by reason ofthe gap 4C in the teeth of the ratchetwheel having reached the actuating-pawl 4h. This movement of the lower end of the lever 4 toward the rear of the machine moves the working position of the needle-bar also toward the rear end of the machine and the end of the connection lf down on the lever l. (See Figs. l and 2.) During the engagement of the first part of the movement of the incline with the roller 6* induced by the action of the pawl 4h the needle-bar is moved toward the rear end of the machine through the action of the usual switch-cam, which is in engagement with the lower end of the lever l, and the end of the connection lf is moved down on the lever l at the same time through the action of the cam-lever 3 and the connections between the same and the con` nection 1f. These movements are so proportioned relative to each other that the action of the mechanism which moves the working position of the needle-bar laterally is offset by the movement of the end of the connection lf down on thelever 1, and consequently the needle descends in the same place it would have descended if the working position ofthe same had not been changed, which place is at the end of the bar on the side of the buttonhole about to be stitched. The engagement between the incline 9* and the roller 6* induced bythe second stroke of the pawl 4h again moves the lower end of the lever 4 toward the rear end of the machine and through the connections between the upper end of the said leverand the needle-bar again moves the working position of the needle-bar toward the rear end of the machine and the end of the connection lf farther down on the said lever l. These movements reduce the extent of the lateral vibration of the needle to that which is used in stitching the sides of the buttonhole, and the needle descends in line with the edge stitches of the first side of the hole. Thus it is seen a change from long barringstitches to the short stitches for the first side of the hole has taken place without there being any intermediate short or mongrel stitches in the bar. The roller 6* now being in the portion 3* of the cam and the gaps 4c in the ratchet-wheel 4b under the actnating-pawl 4h the cam 4fL remains at rest until one side of the buttonhole has been stitched. During the tacking of the end of the hole the part 4m on the cam 4 moves away from the part 4l on the gear 4, the speed of this movement being determined by the extent of the stroke of the pawl 7b in engagement. with the ratchetwheel 7. During the stitching of the side of the buttonhole the part 4q moves toward the part 4m and engages with said part justbefore the end ofthe holeis reached, and thereby turns the cam 4f, and through it the ratchet 4b, until the pawl 4h engages the teeth on the opposite side of the gap 4c. rlhis movement of the part 41, which brings the incline l0* up to the roller 6* and then the pawl 4 into engagement with the teeth of the ratchet-wheel 4b, is produced through the movement of the ratchet 7 and the connection between it and the gear 4. The gaps in the ratchet-wheel 4b are of a greater extent than the longest stroke of the pawl 4, and v the portions and 4* are of such an extent that the roller 6* just reaches an incline at the en d of one of ihe said portions as the pawl 4h crosses one of the gaps and engages with the teeth of the ratchet-wheel. The rst engagement of the pawl with the teeth of the ratchet-wheel 4b after crossing the gap 4c engages the incline lO of the cam with the roller 6*, and thereby moves the lower end of the lever 4 toward the forward end ofthe machine and through it,as it is understood, the Working position ofthe needle-bar in the same direction and the end ofthe connection lf upon the lever l. As this movement takes place the lower end of the lever lis moved toward the forward end of the machine through the action of the usual switch-cam, and through such action the needle-bar is moved toward the rear end of the machine, the movement of the end of the connection lf upon the lever l neutralizing the effect of the movement of the working position of the needle-bar toward the forward end of the machine. Thus it is seen the needle descends in line with the depthstitches the same as if no change had been made in the movement of the working position of the needle-bar. rlhe second engagement of the pawl with the teeth of the ratchetwheel 4b d nring the engagement between the portion l0* with the roller 6* turns the portion l* into engagement with the roller 6*. During this second engagement the lower end of the lever l is moved toward the rear end of the machine, and through this move- IIO ment the needle-bar is moved toward the forward end of the machine at the same time that: the Working position of the needle-bar moves in this direction, and thus the entire end of the buttonhole is crossed by a long barring or tacking stitch. The machine continues to make these stitches during the engagement between the portion lik and the roller Gl, which engagement through the adjustment of the pawl 4h preferably continues during the formation of nine long barringstitches across the end of the bottonhole, which finishes the tack with the needle on the opposite side of the said buttonhole with respect to the first side of the hole stitched. During the stitching of the first side of the buttonhole the cam D is turned so as to move the work toward the operator, which movement has now taken place in the stitching of the buttonhole so far as described, and the Work-clamp through the action of said cam has commenced to move from the operator, said clamp -having been in its extreme position toward the operator when one-half of the tack at the end of the hole had been completed. The end of the portion 1'c of the cam 4 just reaches the roller 6* of the lever 4 as the eighth stitch across the end of the buttonhole is completed. During the movement of the needle-bar through the action of the lever l toward the forward end of the machine preparatory to making the ninth stitch across I the end of the buttonhole the incline 5":c engages the roller 6* and through it moves the working position of the needle-bar also to ward the forward end of the machine and at the same time the end of t-he connection 1f down on the lever l. This movement of the end of the connection 1f down on the lever l, as before explained, offsets the movement of the working position of the needle-bar, and the needle descends at the end of the tack or bar. The next engagement between the incline 5i of the cam and the roller 6* of the lever 4 moves the Working position of the needle-bar still farther toward the forward end of the machine and at the same time the end of the connection lf, as before, down on the lever l. Thus the extent of the vibratory movement of the needle is returned to what it was during the stitching of the other side of the hole, and therefore the needle descends in line with the edge stitches of the second side of the hole and completes an edge stitch. The gap ftd of the ratchet-wheel having now come under the actuating-pawl 4h and the portion 45' of the cam into engagement With the roller 6", the cam and ratchet again remain at rest until the stitching of the second side of the buttonhole is nearly completed,when the part 41 of the gear-Wheel again engages 4:1 of the cam and through it again turns the cam 4b until the portion 8* reaches the roller 6i and the rst tooth on the opposite side of the gap 4d of the ratchet-,wheel comes into engagement with the pawl 4h. The first engaging stroke of the said pawl with the said ratchet-wheel now causes the first part of the incline 8* to engage the roller 6*, which engagement moves the working position of the needle toward the rear end of the machine and the connection lf upon the lever l, and at the same time the needlebar is being moved toward the forward end of the machine through the action of the lever l. The needle, as before, descends at the end of the tack the same as if no movementhad been made in its working position. The next movement of the pawl 4h moves the working position of the needle-bar again to the right at the same time the lever l moves it to the right, and the movement of the connection 1f upon said lever increases the extent of the movement through said lever. These combined movements, as before at the other end of the button hole,cause the needle to cross the entire end of the hole and descend at the end of the tack or bar. The portion 2i" of the cam being again in engagementwith the roller 6*, tacking or barring stitches are again made at the first end of the buttonhole and mostly on top of those previously made. The engagement between the portion 2* and the roller 6* continues until the roller is in or near the center of said portion, when the stop-motion is tripped, the machine stopped, and the automatic cutter actuated. During the tacking of one end of the buttonhole the portions lOii, 1*, and 5* engage the roller 6*, and during this time the cam turns nearly one-half around and the part 4m turns ahead of the part 4c nearly this amount. The movements of the cam through the portions for tacking one end of the buttonhole are all produced by the ratchet-wheel 4b, and the cam D is timed (through adjusting the gear d" around on the shaft E) relative to said movements, so that the bar or tack is made square across the end of the hole. The gear 4E is timed (by adjusting the same around on the shaft F) relative to the engagement between the part 41 on the said gear and the part 4m on the cam t so the stop-motion will be tripped into action at the proper time during the nishing of the finishing end of the buttonhole.

Referring again to the lever l, it is noted that through one adjustment of screw 19*, which connects the two parts of the link 2, the length of the barring or tacking stitches, the length of the overseaming-stitches on the sides of the buttonhole, andthe space between the rows of said overseaming-stitches along the sides of the hole can be all proportionally increased or decreased. The advantage of this can be readily understood. For example, if longer individual overseaming-stitches are Wanted along the sides of the holes by the one adjustment of the end of the connection' lf upon the lever l, which adjustment is accomplished by lengthening the connection 2 through the adjusting-screw 19:, this is accomplished, for the reason that this adj ustment increases the stitches out from the center and proportionally increases the barring or tacking stitches, and vice versa when shorter stitches are wanted.

Referring again to the stop-motion device, it is noted that the adjustment of the tension of the spring 105 governs the speed of the action of the same. For example, if the rod l()k is so adjusted that the spring 10j is under a heavy strain the leverl 10e, and through it the strap 10, will be closed at a higher rate of speed, and consequently the machine will be stopped sooner after the tripping of the stopmotion than it would be with said spring under a light strain. This is very advantageous, as the stop-motion can be adjusted instantly to stop the machine with the take-up at its extreme upper position or in any given position.

The movements of the feed-wheel which moves the work in the ordinary buttonholemachine are too slow for producing the movements required for properly making the barring-stitches at the ends of the same, or, in other words, for having the barring-stitches all one length across. the ends of the holes. When the movement is slow in changing from one side of the hole to the other, there are a series of short and long barring stitches formed, the needle sometimes going down in the same hole the second time and sometimes going down through the barring-stitches already made, causing'the thread to fray and break and producing a sort of a lump for a bar. This trouble is aggravated if a pearlstitch buttonhole is being made.

Some of the advantages in using my invention are as follows:

In my machine, as the work-carrier is reciprocated and has no lateral movement, it will always present the work to the needle so as to form absolutely-straight buttonholes no matter at what speed the machine is run. This movement causes the cutter to cut the hole absolutely clean after it has been stitched, so that its inner sides show the thread only, as when the hole is cut before it is stitched. This movement is not only much better when the hole is cut after the stitching, but is much better if it is desired to cut the hole before the stitching. The work-clamp having no lateral movement', it is seen that an ordinary presser-foot can be used to hold the work down around the needle. Of course a slit for the passage of the knife at the rear of the foot would have to be made and a proper this construction a much better buttonhole is not only produced, but a large saving in machinery is made, securing an economy in the power for running the same and in the general wearing of the machine.

In the stop-motion employed by me will be found a mechanism which produces the least possible jar in stopping the machine. It will be noted that lit is self-tightening. Itis supported by springs affording always a yielding form of action, which produces, however, a positive result.

The auxiliary cutter-holder is designed to prevent the depression of the knife from any cause at the wrong time. For instance, if for any reason it is desired to stop the machine suddenly by striking downward upon the forward end of `the lever 14a the machine will be at once stopped. The auxiliary holder, however, prevents the knife from descending in such a contingency unless the work-carrier is in such a position that the end of the buttonhole is being finished. The work, therefore, is in no danger of being cut improperly.

What I claim as new isl. In combination in a buttonhole-sewing machine, a stitch-forming mechanism comprising a vertically-reciprocating and laterally-vibrating needle-bar, a feed-wheel and means for operating the same, a Work-carrier reciprocated through 'thefmovements of the said feed-wheel, and means adapted at a predetermined point in the rotation of the said feed-wheel, to move the working position of the needle-bar laterally.

2. In combination in a buttonhole-sewing machine, a stitch-forming mechanism comprising a vertically-reciprocating and laterally vibrating needle bar, a reciprocating work-carrier, means adapted to move the working position of the needle-bar laterally during a predetermined p art of the movement of the work-carrier and a predetermined lateral movement of the needle-bar.

3. In combination in a buttonhole-sewing machine, a stitch-forming mechanism comprising a vertically-reciprocating and laterally-vibrating needle-bar, a work-carrier, a rotating feed-wheel, means intermediate the feed-wheel and the work-carrier, the feedwheel and the needle-bar, whereby the Workcarrier is reciprocated and the working position of the needle-bar moved laterally during the change in the direction of the movement of the work-carrier.

4. In combination in a buttonhole-sewing machine, stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism, one of said mechanisms comprising a vibrating part through which the movement for producing the depth and edge stitches along the sides of the holes is produced, a cam, means for operating the said cam, means intermediate the cam and the vibrating part adapting the cam to move laterally the working position of the vibrating part and thereby change the stitching from one side of the buttonhole to the other, and means operated through the movements of the said cam adapted to increase and decrease the extent of the vibrations of the aforesaid vibrating part during the stitching from one side of the buttonhole to the other,

IOO

IIO

5. In combination in a buttonhole-sewing machine, mechanism for feeding the work, mechanism for stitching buttonholes comprising a vibrating needle-bar, a lever, a connection between said lever and the needle-bar, whereby the extent of the vibrations of the needle-bar is increased and decreased during a lateral movement in one direction of the lever, and means for actuating the said lever when stitching at or near the ends of the buttonholes.

6. In combination in a buttonhole-sewing machine, a stitch-forming mechanism comprising a vertically-reciprocating Aand laterally-vibrating needle, a feeding mechanism, the cam-lever 3, the lever 4, a connection between the leverfiand the cam-lever 3, means intermediate the cam-lever 3 and the needlebar wherebywhen the said cam-lever is oscillated the vibrations of the needle are increased and decreased, and means for actuating the lever 4.

7. In combination in a buttonhole-sewing machine, a reciprocating work carrier, a stitch-forming mechanism comprising a vertically-reciprocating and laterally-vibrating needle-bar, means adapted to automatically move during a predetermined part of the movement of the work-carrier, the working position of the needle-bar in one direction laterallyr and simultaneously therewith a lateral vibration of the needle-bar in an oppoi site direction.

8. In combination in a bnttonhole-sewing machine, a stitch-forming mechanism comprising a vertically-reciprocating needle-bar i adapted to move laterally and a device for vibrating the same laterally, a work-carrier, mechanism for reciprocating the work-carrier comprising a feed-wheel, a ratchet-wh eel, means intermediate the ratchet-wheel and the aforesaid device, whereby when the ratchet- Wheel is rotated the extent of the lateral vibrations of the needle-bar is changed, and means for rotating the ratchet-wheel brought into engagement with the same by the movements of the feed-wheel during a predetermined part of the cycle of feed of the said feed-wheel.

9. In combination in a buttonhole-sewing machine, mechanism for stitching buttonholes comprising a vertically-reciprocating and laterally-vibrating needle-bar, a workcarrier, mechanism comprising a pawl-actuated feed-wheel for operating said work-carrier, a pawl-actuated ratchet-wheel separately mounted from the said pawl-actuated feed-wheel, m eans intermediate the said pawlactuated ratchet wheel and the aforesaid needle-bar, whereby the extent of the lateral vibrations of the needle-bar is increased and decreased during the stitching of a predetermined part of the buttonhole.

10. In combination in a buttonhole-sewing machine having a stitch-forming mechanism comprising a vertically-reciprocating and laterally-vibrating needle -bar, Work-moving mechanism comprising a rotating feed-wheel, adevice adapted autom atically to in crease and decrease the extent of the lateral vibrations of the needle during the stitching of a predetermined part of the buttonhole, and means adapting the feed-wheel to turn the said device into action.

11. In combination in a buttonhole-sewing machine, stitching and feeding mechanism for stitching the sid es o'f the buttonholes comprising a feed-wheel, means for stitching the ends of the buttonholes comprising a cam, means intermediate the cam and the feedwheel, whereby the cam is turned through the movements of the feed-wheel, and means independent of the feed-wheel whereby the cam is actuated during the stitching of the ends of the buttonholes.

12. In combination in a buttonhole-sewing machine, stitching and feeding mechanism for stitching the sides of the buttonholes comprising a feed-Wheel, means for stitching the ends of the bnttonholes comprising a cam adapted to turn on a pivot, a ratchet-Wheel connected with said cam, an actuating device normally out of engagement with the teeth of the said ratchet-wheel, and means operated through the movements of the feedwheel adapted to bring the actuating device into engagement with the teeth of the ratchetwheel.

13. In combination in a buttonhole-sewing lmachine, stitching and feeding mechanism comprising a feed-wheel, a device for controlling .the stitching at the ends of the buttonholes, a mutilated ratchet-Wheel for actuating the said device, a pawl normally out of engagement with the teeth of the said ratchetwheel, means for actuating the said pawl and means intermediate the feed-wheel and the ratchetwheel adapted to turn the ratchetwheel and thereby the teeth of the same into engagement with the pawl.

14. In combination in a buttonhole-sewing machine, stitching mechanism for forming the side stitches of the buttonhole, feeding mechanism comprising a feed-wheel, tacking mechanism comprising, a ratchet wheel, a

pawl adapted to engage the said ratchet-wheel normally ont of engagement with the teeth `of the same, a pawl-lever for carrying said pawl, an eccentric on the lower shaft of the machine, a connection between the same and the pawl-lever, and means for bringing the aforesaid pawl into engagement with the teeth of the ratchet-wheel.

15. The combination inabuttonhole-sewing machine having a vertically reciprocating needle-bar mounted and adapted to move laterally, of a work-carrier mechanism adapted to actuate the same comprising a feed-wheel, a device adapted to vibrate the n eedle-bar laterally, and means adapted to actuate said device, a second device adapted to vary the extent of the vibrations of the needle-bar and to bodily move the same laterally, an operative connection between the said second de- IIO 'vice and the first device, a ratchet Wheel adapted to actuate the second device, an aeua'ting paWl adapted to actuate the said ratchet-Wheel, and means adapting the feedwheel to turn the teeth of the said ratchetwheel into engagement with the pawl.

In Witness whereof I have hereunto set my -hand in the presence of two subscribing wit,-A

nesses. Y

WILLIAM N. PARKES` Witnesses: CHESTER H. HIGGINS B. M. SCOTT. 

